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The Scottish Cycle Tour North Coast 500 May 2022

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ROUTE

Hello and thank you for taking an interest in my website.

Back in May 1996 I set out with a friend of mine, Kelvin Towler, to go for a short cycle tour in Scotland. We drove to, then set off cycling from, Fort William taking in Shiel Bridge, Loch a Chroisg, Gairlich, Contin and then back down along Loch Ness to Fort William. On this trip I found a fine set of antlers near Glen Carron and brought them back to mount on the wall as a memoir. These have hung on my wall as a reminder for 26 years and the itch to get out there and do it again has been nagging me all this time. So finally after all these years I've been really keen to go cycling again. Marriage & 2 kids later, never enough time off work ... it was time to scratch that itch and set off again.

Antlers

 

I asked around a few of my friends who might be keen; one had always said he wanted to do Land's End to John O'Groats but the time wasn't right for him. Nothing was going to hold me back so I though I'd just have to do it alone.

Another reason I was really keen to do it; I have always been a very keen runner, marathons and lots of parkruns most weekends but in the last few years I really started to ache after each run. At 57 I was starting to think my joints are on the way out and I thought well if I don't get going now it might be getting too late in life. I've come to realise, as with so many other things, there is no best time. Don't put things off. Do them NOW!

So I started making plans. Time of the year was important. I've always thought beginning of May is one of the nicest times of the year and I've yet to be proven wrong. The first week in May has always been beautiful (my dad's birthday was on the first of May and that always comes to mind too). One thing about Scotland is that as the season progresses the midges arrive and if you're inland or near still water or forests midges are going to get you. So I reckoned early in the season would be safest. It not completely safe but it's not so bad. First week in May also gave me an extra bank holiday to add to time off work.

I live in Maidstone in Kent so to get to Scotland in the first place is a bit of a challenge. I was checking out train routes and all sorts of ways of getting there but nothing seemed to fit other than taking the bicycle and luggage up by car and leaving it somewhere. Plus Scotland is such a long way to go, I had to break the journey, so for me a stopover with my father-in-law in Blackpool was ideal and allowed me to break my journey on the way up and back down.

 ROUTE  

I reckoned with fair wind I could do 50 miles a day comfortably so with 10 days holiday to spare I was looking for a route that might be about 500 miles. In reality I wouldn't have that much time taking into account getting to Scotland and back so I reckoned I would need to be flexible in both journey length and route. This along with being alone, needing to keep costs to a minimum, led me to the self sufficient route. Carry my home with me. If I broke down or needed a break I could stop anywhere and pitch camp, thanks to Scotland's policy on wild camping. In reality I did like some home comforts so to pull up at campsites on route would be preferred but the wild camping would be fun too. This led to taking the full kitchen sink. All food and clothes and camping equipment were to come with me. A fully loaded touring bike was needed.

My normal cheap mountain bike that kept me fit on my once weekly cycle to and from work would not cut the mustard and needing to count the pennies I couldn't just splash out on something new. Solid was the principal spec. I'd read a lot on line about this bike and that. Lighter weight the better, but to lug a decent load reliably needs something tough.

So I regularly scoured eBay. Came close and even bid on a few things until one day I saw just the thing. One thing put me off, it was step through, not a crossbar, but the frame was large! The more I thought about it the more logical sense it made. Once fully laiden, swinging my leg over the luggage every time I got on and off would be a pain, so step through it was. This proved to be a very sensible choice. Don't be swayed by sexual stereotypes! Practicality wins.

Gazelle Ultimate Marco Polo. 30 speed derailleur. Front wheel lighting dynamo. Full panier racks. Double side stands. Virtually totally maintainable with just an Allen key or two. Marathon tyres and twin water bottle holders. Tip:- you can afford to run out of anything else but not fluids when cycling long distance alone. Now at £750 it was the most I'd ever paid for a bicycle but I figured this was the time to splash out on what would be my journey companion. (Turns out virtually any bike will do as long as you can get on with it and you've got enough 'stuff' with you to keep it on the road at least till your next pit stop).

There is a lot of planning to do for a journey like this, equally you can worry and plan too much and never actually go.. so just do it!

The full North Coast (NC)500 really appealed. I love the Highlands and was longing to do all the fiddlely bits of coastline in the west side. Typically people start and finish the NC500 from Inverness, but I figured it didn't really matter where you start and finish as long as you do as much as you can. If I was taking longer than expected I could always reduce my journey with a short cut.

In the end I decided on Applecross as start, so it was just a case of finding a suitable spot to leave the car. Somewhere safe enough for a week or more that wouldn't cost an arm and a leg in parking.. Equally I didn't want to leave it somewhere that would hinder others. There are plenty of lay-bys but on single track roads these ARE NOT car parks. I won't detail exactly where I left the car. Needless to say I came to an arrangement with some locals and I don't want anyone reading this to expect to be granted parking at the same spot. Do your homework on this, you don't want to return to your car with a clamp on it or worse to find your car towed away.

The NC500 is a double edged sword for locals. It brings in good tourist revenues for northern Scotland but with racing cars, motorcycles and endless campervans on the small roads, they take their toll. Rubbish, noise and traffic jams and worse do hinder the locals and understanderbly so. Having said this, the slower pace of walkers and cyclists ARE very much welcomed and I found everyone I met friendly, welcoming and considerate.

For the single small tent cyclist booking campsites ahead was not usually necessary and not this early in the season. I would typically set a target site on a daily basis and ring ahead to book a pitch. In peak summer season you may need to be more organised and book further ahead, especially if you are a group of people.

 Applecross1  Applecross2
 Applecross3  Applecross4
 Applecross5  

Driving up from my father-in-laws in Blackpool the lure of the highlands was palpable. As soon as I was over the border entering into Scotland the excitment and landscape changed. It was a long drive and I approached Applecross via Bealach na Ba. Scenery to be absolutely in awe of. You have to drive slowly up here, cyclists and walkers, campervans and motorbikes sharing the pass, appreciating the views and basically trying to stay on the road. Fabulous. I had pre-booked the campsite for a single tent and car. Once settled in and tent up, I walked down to the village and to the Applecross Inn to appreciate their fine fare. My excitment was building, I was keen to get onto two wheels, but for tonight I would need to be patient and recover from the long tiring drive. Instead I took a gentle stroll north past Applecross Walled Garden and past highland cattle, over the bridge spaning the River Applecross and on to nose around the Applecross Heritage Centre. On my way back to the campsite as the evening was drawing in I walked past deer heads down, grazing the verges of the road, close and tame enough to almost touch and of course photograph. I was in the wilds, away from the fast paced life of the southern England. I was on holiday! Please note NO Lycra here, it's not for me! 

 Day 1:- Applecross to Gairloch 

Day1MAP

 D1A
 D1B  D1C
 D1D  D1E
 D1F  D1G
 

Slugs and Cuckoos.

 

I woke early with excitement, dawn was approaching. A quick breakfast, hastily packing the tent into the car I broke camp and drove north up the western edge of the Applecross peninsula. I wont say exactly where I left my car, but I was very grateful for the assistance I was afforded. I parked up and got the bike out and started to load. Deep breaths of fresh air, the sun was just coming up. I was off. There was no going back now, just the excitment of the road ahead. I soon was getting too hot. I knew I was not going to rush. I was determined to take in the environment. Stop an appreciate when ever I wanted. That was the whole point. No time pressures. My food and 'house' was with me. If I broke down or needed to stop I was self sufficient. Strava was tracking me. Phone on Airplane mode to save battery. Solar panels on the back of the bike and battery packs to recharge the phone. Photos taken whenever it took me. Cuckoos were the principle birds that I could hear. This stayed true for the whole of my journey. The other striking thing were the slugs! Large black ones crossing this way and that on the roads, quite a challenge to avoid them. Highland cattle and sheep could walk into the road at any point so even on the downhill stretches, controlling your speed was essential especially fully laden. I was grinning on the inside and out. It was gorgious. As you wind your way up the peninsula and round it's northern peak you are presented with yet more spectacular views of Loch Torridon and Shieldaig. Torridon, Beinn Eighe on my left onto Kinlochewe then along Loch Maree stopping at its waters edge for as lunch break. Then on to Gairloch and Big Sands campsite set amongst the dunes for my first night's stop. Around 55 miles. Plenty for the first day.

 shorthopp  

 panoramaSAND

 Day2  

Day 2:- Gairloch to Ullapool 60 miles to Ullapool with some horrible yet spectacular hills on the way, low gear essential, standing on the pedals and I am not ashamed to say, a fair few walks too. Buying eggs from honesty boxes on the way. Hardboiling them in the kettle on breaks, makes for a good snack and saves them from damage enroute.. One of the most spectacular views, though a real challenge to get to, the view from Corrieshalloch Gorge Viewpoint looking towards Loch Broom and Ullapool. Plus the lovely bonus of it being downhill all the way. A terrific downhill stretch. I could do it all again, but en-foot to take in the areas more slowly. Even cycling was too fast. The Broomfield Campsite and an indian curry takeaway was a treat for the night. The temptation to jump on the ferry to the Hebrides was strong but will have to wait for another year!

 1  2
 3  4
 5  6
 7  8
 9  10
 11  12
 13  14
 15  

 

 D3  

Day 3:- Ullapool to Durness ( Loch Eriboll) Now it is here that I must admit I would very much like to have taken the smaller roads to investigate the fiddley bits on the far western edges of the highland coast line. Scoraig, and out towards the summer isles, but at this point of the journey I did not know how far I could actually get nor how my journey would really pan out. I had ten days before needing to be back at work and I also felt I needed to stay a while with my father in law on my way back down south. So despite the feeling of freedom, there was still a nagging pressure of real life and timescales. So I decided to press on north on the main road A385 but I was sorely tempted to turn left towards Achiltibuie, Old Dorney, Lochinver, but again, this will ahve to wait for another year. So it was a long slog north instead, A837, Kylesku bridge, impressive, some rain the most I would have on my trip got the full poncho on, but over heating soon finds you just taking it off letting your tea shirt get wet and then dry out as you ride. As long as you are moving and pushing you are warm and can dry out. As soon as you start to feel the cold, get dry and put in the layers. Keep the jumpers and poncho for when you stop and need to walk in the rain. TOP priorities:- Always keep your sleeping bag and at least one set of clothes dry in double plastic bags, because you are worth it! Scourie, Laxford bridge, and the really hard bleak bit Rhiconich onwards but when you do finally crest the top of the moores the drop down to Durness is bliss. Durness and it's long sandy beaches are lovely, but by now I was tired and needed to find a quiet spot. 

cup knockan
sign handlebar
bridge wet
bridge2 scape
scape2 hatman
durness durness1
 wildside  

Not having booked anything ahead tonight it was time to go wild.. finally found a lovely spot up in the heather near Laid to wild camp, back from the road out of sight. Beautiful peaceful silence of a night far from anyone, only to be woken and one point and scared momentarily rigid by the strangest loud sounding bird that appeared to be right next to the tent in the middle of the night. Actually a fabulous sound but one I am still trying to identify..

sarnie tent
 DAY4  

Day 4:- Loch Eriboll to John O'Groats Refreshed and up early soon after dawn to break camp. Beautiful morning I rolled down around Loch Eriboll and gradually climbing the hill on the otherside you begin to see what looks to be a ship harbour fortress island linked to the land by a strip of beach. This is actually Ard Neakie Lime Kilns. Now this is where I have to admit I may have gone overboard on bike loading.. My knees were starting to hint to me big time that I had been piling too much torque through my legs. All hills are now taken in the lower set of gears, and I should have started this at the start. Walking up most hills was also becoming a necessity. Not that that was a bad thing. You have more time to take in the scenery. Be nosey over little brooks. Take in the sights. Get the gas burner and kettle out and have a cuppa! My knees were actually starting to audibly squeek as the as the ligaments stretch over the knee joints, aahhwww. It was time to take stock of the bike load.. Trainers on, do I really need that extra pair of plastic water shoes. Two spare inner tubes when I might only need one.. All those extra clothes.. wear one keep one spare dry. I don't need the rest. It was time to ditch. Seeing a clothes recycling point prompted a rash drop in clothes carried. This was going to be a long day. I didn't know how far I'd get but I was definately aiming for John O'Groats. If I didn't make it I could stop where I get, equally there was nothing to stop me from just carrying on. Tongue Causeway sees the road cross the Kyle of Tongue. So many places I would like to nose around but missed, even just to walk out onto Tongue Pier, but my goal was to just keep going today. Bettyhill is undoubtedly a jewel of the north coast. We are leaving the highlands behind us and the landscapes are starting change. The coastline here is gorgeous. I must also point out, Scotland does public conveniences as they should be. Available, open and working. Usually with fresh water taps to keep my bottles full. England could learn lessons here. So often conveniences have all closed and the only option for toilets are in coffee shops. If you want visitors to come and even locals to be properly catered for this is a minimum that should be maintained. The wind is against me now, coast line to my left, on to Thurso. No more west coast highlands, missing the beauty of Applecross the spectacle of heavy industry and Dounreay Nuclear Power Station. The road is becoming a bit of a racetrack, commuter traffic and afternoon bikers are rushing to their destinations. Knuckle down and carry on. Thurso is a major town with a good selection of shops and marks a turning point for traffic to head south on the A9. Here though the long slog to my target starts to drag on. The wind against me doubles the struggle. Murkle, Castletown and Mey have there own special places..again I am rushing when there is always more to see. Today would be my longest daily ride of all, 86.5miles. Clouds were gathering and to be honest my target was getting pretty bleaker but I did manage to make the campsite and pitch before the rain came. A stark difference this east side of the country to the west I had left that morning. The weather was kind to me. the rain did not last and in reality the winds could be a whole lot worse.

eriboll craggen
bridge2 tongue
loadedbike cottage
beach JOG
JOGHarbour tent
   
 DAY5  

Day 5:- John O'Groats to Inver I had bagged the preverbial selfie at the signpost of John O'Groats the night before . In reality I was now happy to leave here. I could have continued south on the A99 but the coastal winds were against me again and I decided to head in land and to smaller roads for traffic free cycling and shelter from the coastal winds. So back to Canisbay, Upper Gills then south to Brabster, Hastigrow, Watten (with its rookery of birds in the only trees for miles that splattered the cars in the village with poo) and then down through Windmill covered fields to visit Camster Cairns. An unplanned gem of a find. Appreciating the woosh of the windmill sails, the Cairns, piles of prehistoric rocks that were homes or refuges for early man now approached from a boarded walkway allowed me to crawl right inside through a small iron gate to the centre of the pile of rocks. An eary experience and a step back in time. Just one other solo campervan for company, I could have crawled in and never come out again and nobody would have been around to rescue me if I'd just grown a little to large to squeeze myself back out! Stopping at www.inver-caravan-park.co.uk at Dunbeath, with a warm welcome and a specially reduced price for those who make it there under their own steam. Thank you!

brekkie canisbay
viewnorth turfcutter
FLOW camsterwind
cairns path to cairn
round stones or house
car wash required  Inver Caravan Park
 DAY6  

Day 6 :- Inver to Blackrock Caravan Park, Evanton, Dingwall Following the A9 south now 64 miles or so. A really nice spot on route for a break was Helmsdale, a fishing port at the estuary of the River Helmsdale. It was once the home of one of the largest herring fleets in Europe. Helmsdale taught me some Scottish history at the Emigrants Monument

routedown back up
country Helmsdale
Helmsdale1 Helmsdale2
Emigrants Monument  
 DAY7  

Day 7:- Dingwall to Torridon On the home stretch now. The end was in sight. I might actually make it! Today I went through some awsome places (as I did everyday). Strathpeffer a Victorian era popular spa resort, with a pump-room in the middle of the village and hotels. Contin, Garve, Achnasheen, Kinlochewe then up to Torridon Campsite a Highland Council run site run on donation. No vans caravans or motorhomes so ideal for the cycle tourer! This was a lovely spot with hikers and climbers carrying crashmats on their backs visiting Beinn Eighe and the surrounding mountains. Also, for the first time on my trip I got to use my midge sprays and creams! So it was bed early and midge screens zipped tight on the tent.

Evanton south Fodderty
Strathpeffer Strathpeffer1
Strathpeffermap NestingHighV
waterpower waterpower1
flowwater waterpower2
view mountain
 DAY8  

Day 8:- Torridon to Applecross Back to the most beautiful area of my trip. The Applecross peninsula. The excitement of completing my journey only heightened the thrill. On my initial ride out over a week ago I passed and wished good day to an elderly gentleman walking the road in what seemed miles fom anywhere. He was perfectly 'at home' where if I had met such a person in my home town so far from civilisation I would have been most concerned. So when I chanced upon the same person on my return trip it was time for a better conversation. Stewart Johnson turned out to be very personable and pleased to stop and talk. I heard a potted history of his life, his work in New Zealand and his life here in the highlands with his cattle. A different life indeed with a very different perspective on life I was very pleased to make his aquaintance. Now just sheep and a few highland cattle stood in my way, but I was back, journey complete and reunited with my car. In all I have cycled and walked and enjoyed 455.26miles. Strava logged 55hours and 28minutes of moving time with an average of 8.2miles/hour. Completed in 7 days and three hours with hill elevation climbs totalling 29158ft, the same height as Everest. It was time to celebrate and to do this I took a refreshing swim on the specatcular but deserted beach at Applecross Sand, Sand Beach, parking at the car park at Sand on the road that leads to the Ministry of Defence submarine testing station.

torridon torridon1
torridon2 torridon3
way bike
Ardheslaig Ardheslaig1
LochTorridon road back to Applecross
barr wiggle road
cattle shaggy
HighlandCattle  

 

some great links:- https://visitapplecross.com/faq/

https://www.twoscotsabroad.com/north-coast-500-campsites-motorhomes/

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